Old Nino's get reviewed: Francesco's

Francesco's, the old Nino's, on the corner of Henry and Union Streets, is a bit of a mystery. Nino's was well-run and beloved until the owner had to flee for unforeseen circumstances and wound up wearing a Sicilian necktie. I've been hesitant to go back in, but Eat Brooklyn Food wasn't.

"The plain slice is passable, that generic New York slice that would be at home on any corner in Manhattan, but you’d be foolish to skip the lard bread slice - order a pie if you have the time and audience. The pie resembles those Elio’s-like cafeteria slices you loved in Grade school because you didn’t know any better, but there’s a sleek thinness that avoids the Sicilian style label the pie’s shape demands. The drawback, what keeps it from serious discussion, is apparent on grabbing your first slice, as that first piece separates reluctantly from its whole. The pie is blanketed by a down quilt of industrial strength, bargain basement mozzarella, a chore to contend with even straight out of the oven. But the canvas is the attraction, like its obese cousin at L&B Spumoni; cheese is entirely beside the point."

You had me at obese.